Sal´am (Hello in Arabic)
Wow! Very late on my bloggin again...Sorry! Had 3 6-page papers due the Monday after getting back from Morocco so any writing done was for that. SO here is Morocco! ohhhh....Morocco! It was really amazing! Prepare yourselves for a long blog....Here it goes...
We spent TONS of time in the bus, but without being able to fly, or train it, its the only option. We left last Friday morning at 5am from Sevilla after my school had a fiesta to say goodbye to another group of students so lets just say I only got 1.5 hours of sleep that night! We took off at 5am via bus and before even leaving the city the suspension broke. We were sent a new bus and, although late, we started our drive to the southernmost point of Spain - Tarifa - which is also the port to depart via ferry to Africa. We took a ferry over the Strait of Gibraltar to Tangiers, which is the main entry port into Morocco. Finally I got my passport stamped with something! When we arrived in Tangiers we met Amina who would be our Moroccan tour guide the whole time we were there. She could tell us more about the culture, customs, and history than the other guides.
We drive from Tangiers the entire morning and stop to get our first meal in Rabat for lunch. The restaurante was on the beach so it had an amazing view and we got to play in the Atlantic which was pretty cold! The food was AMAZING! The food the entire trip was amazing! This first meal was Moroccan salad which was red and green peppers and various spices with olives, then the main coures was chicken pastilla - one of the best things I have ever had! It is spiced chicken (wish I remember the spice) that was very tender and put inside a thin pastry and toasted so it was like a little package of chicken and topped off with cinnamon and sugar on top. Who would have thought that all those different spices would go well together?! After lunch we got a tour of the Kaspah - yes, and we rocked it too ;) - which is similar to a Medina but purely residential. A medina is a comercial area that is only made up of small alleyways that have no names or organized manner of finding your way around. So the Kaspah was similar with all the walls and doors painted a beautiful contrast of white and bright blue! They painted it that way because they believe it keeps away the mosquitoes! :) It was very cute and we ended the tour at a beautiful lookout of the beaches. While we were up on the lookout, we heard the Muslim call to prayer from various mosques in the city! It was so cool and the first time I really felt like I had entered into a very different culture and world. Next, we got a tour of the mausoleum which holds the tombs of the previous three kings of Morocco which is a grandfather, father, and son. After these tours we left Rabat and continued on to Fez where we just got a dinner there and spent the night.
We woke up the next morning and drove ALL DAY LONG towards the desert. We made various stops which included seeing and taking pictures of monkeys in the mountains! very cute! Though the drive was long, the views from the bus were great! It was interesting watch the terrain change as we got closer to the desert. It started at green fields with wildflower, farms, and countryside with many trees, then changed as we drove through the Middle Atlas mountains with a lot of fog and trees and green! Eventually it changed to the desert and became very rocky with amazing mountains, canyons with a blue river running through it and lush green palm trees growing there in the middle of the rocky desert! crazy!
We leave our bus at a hotel and meet our desert tour guides - the Berbers! Now this is where the best part of the entire trip starts....They were a wonderful, fun group of guys! We all hop into a bunch of jeeps and drive from that hotel to our desert hotel in Merzouga. We have to drive over a river that flooded over the road, then we hit the open expanse of the desert and its a race! all the jeeps scatter and zoom across this open plane going over big mounds, careening left and right, racing each other! It was so much fun as we sat in these jeeps with African music playing and hitting our heads on the roof of the car! :) A great welcome to the culture of the desert! We arrive at tour beautiful hotel in Merzouga, eat a huge buffet dinner with all the cous cous, meats, salads, and grilled vegetables you could eat! mmmmm....loved the food! After dinner the Berbers threw a little fiesta where they played us their music with drums (the African kind that you hold between your knees) and games. The group of tour guides are actually a musical group as well so they were pretty good. We did some dancing and hanging out on cushions on the ground. It was a great time. The fiesta kinda died out as people went to bed, but a couple of the Berbers took us into the dunes to watch the stars from the sand! :) We all walked out there in the pitch dark and talked about wishes when we saw shooting stars. The stars were so beautiful and we could see the Milky Way perfectly! My roomate Caryn, my other friend Carolyn, and I ended up making friends with two of them named Ali and Cous-Cous....its a nickname he told us to call him. I am very amazed by all of the Berbers that we met. They all speak about 6-10 different languages but never went to school to learn them. They learn them all from the tourists that come to their villages and are the base of their income. Ali told me he spoke: Arabic, Berber, Spanish, French, Italian, German, Dutch, English, and a little Japanese! I felt so foolish when I said I "only" spoke two languages. Anyways, we talked for a long time. Ali suddenly asked us if we wanted to see a secret lake "para escuchar a la musica de los pajaros"...."to listen to the music of the birds". I was a little nervous at first to accept his offer but realized that when I am going to be able to see a secret desert lake in Africa with Berbers again in my life?? Right, NEVER. So off we all went, the five of us in Ali's Jeep! We zoomed through the night desert with the African music blaring from the car and the wind coming in through the windows. It was so much fun! We bounced around and dancing in the back seat! Ali even pulled out a "ghost riding" attempt by himself haha. It was hilarious! We get to the lake and although we cannot see the lake very well we could hear the birds perfectly. It was so beautiful and the stars were even more beautiful being far away from the hotel lights. After a good hour we get back in the car and have an even more fun ride back to the hotel which included more music, dancing, screaming, and laughing! Below is a video of the ride back I captured! :) Enjoy!
Anyways, to keep this blog rolling. We get back to the hotel and hang out with a some more of the Berbers that were just hanging out and get to try on and pick turbans for the camel ride the next day. We get up, eat a big buffet breakfast (so amazing once again!) and go on a tour of the Berber community of Merzouga where we were. We saw how they farm, how they get water, the community bread oven, and the rug shop of handmade Berber rugs. I got suckered into bartering with a man about a small rug and somehow he suddenly said, "okay" to a price and I never even realized that I for sure wanted the rug! ha well, the good thing is, is that the starting price was 150 euro and I got it down to 30 euro! yeah! It felt like a great deal even though I don't think I need it, ha. There were many children that followed us around trying to sell us little necklaces or stone soap dishes. They make you feel so guilty since they rely on tourists for a lot of their income! Luckily I didn't give in but did make a friend out of it. I thought he just liked talking to me but ended up showing me his little goodies in his backpack 4 different times to see if I would buy any of it. Shoot, he really wasn't interested in being my friend afterall...although we did exchange email addresses ;)
The sun was too hot to go on the camels so we had to wait about 3 hours until it cooled down a bit before we took off into the dunes to stay at the oasis! While we waited some of us girls got some henna done on our arms to pass the time. We finally were able to get on the camels and start our trek through the dunes!! The camels were HUGE and...yes....though it didn't spit I did get sneezed on by my roommate's camel behind me...it was not pleasant! haha We had a 2 hour camel ride to the camp which really got your bum to be aching by the end of it. The dunes were so beautiful as we rode through them; the color of gold with bright blue clear sky! We all stayed in tents that were set up in a circle at the base of a huge dune. We immediately all started climbing up the dune to see the sunset from the top. It was tons of work and you barely moved as the sand gave way to your weight with every step. But it was completely worth it which one of the most beautiful views I have ever seen. We could see Algeria in the distance as we were only 5 km away from it. I would have taken pictures but with all the sand and lots of wind at the top, it would have ruined my camera for sure. Although someone did take a picture of me and my friend that I will attach below. Hopefully you will get the idea of what it looked like :) We passed the time that night listening to more Berber music, the sound of the camels moaning, and ate a great dinner inside a large tent. :) I fell asleep not believing that it was real that I was in the African Sahara Desert.
The next morning we woke up and hopped right back on the camels to go back to the desert hotel from the night before. Trust me, the bum had not recovered from the ride the day before and it was pretty brutal to sit on a camel for another two hours straight! Getting back we showered and ate breakfast, packed our things up, hopped back in the Jeeps, and back to the hotel where we left our bus. We spent the afternoon by the pool and bar of this hotel! They really know what you crave after being the desert sand overnight...nice refreshing pool and drinks! :) I didn't think it was really needed but it sure was nice to relax and swim around after being so dirty and sandy. We ate the best lunch I had the entire trip at that hotel which was again a large buffet with an equal size dessert table! :) yay! We drive the rest of the day back to Fez and spend the night in the hotel we were at before.
Our second to last day we woke up and went to the Medina in Fez (remember how I described it before?)....it is an area in Fez that is enclosed with 14 doors of entry. It is made up of 9,500 tiny alleyways and streets. They are so small that cars cannot fit so they use donkeys as taxis to carry carts through the street! They shout something and everyone has to quickly flatten themselves against the walls to not get their toes trodden on! :) Oh Morocco! We spent the whole day in the Medina and I did WAY too much shopping and got carried away with the opportunity to barter the prices! We saw the largest tannery in Morocco for tanning leather, a rug store with some beautiful rugs, a Berber pharmacy with spices and herb remedies, a bronze and metal store, and so much more! Fez is known for its artisans so it was very tempting to buy many things that are handmade. I have some regrets on some things I bought but it is done now so I will enjoy them...plus I bought them in Morocco so how much could I regret them! ha We'll see when I have trouble finding a place for them in my house.
We left the Medina and spent the night relaxing in the hotel, which was one of the first times we didn't have something to do from our schedule or was on a bus. Phew! I slept a solid 9 hours that night..it was amazing! The next day was our last day and we droke all morning long until we arrived in Assilah, a beach town close to Tangiers. It was nice because we basically had free time for a good 3 hours to eat, explore the medina there, and relax on the beach. The medina in Assilah was a lot cleaner and brighter with wine and blue painted buildings and wider streets with less people. Much more pleasant than the dirty, crowded, and sometimes smelly medina in Fez. We finally finished our last stop there in Assilah and drove the rest of the way to Tangiers where we would catch the ferry to go back to Spain. Some interesting things that we were warned about was that if anyone asks us where we are going in our bus (says Sevilla, Spain on it) we are supposed to say we are going into the desert and not back to Spain. This is because people try to climb underneath the bus and hold on the whole way to catch a free,illegal ride into Spain. This didn't happen but they checked under the bus before we got off to make sure there was no one there! While we were driving in Tangiers though, we were warned of children jumping on the back of the bus and riding it! if we were somewhat stopped or going slowly, boys would run into traffic and ride on the back of the bus and look inside at us. It was hilarious! When we stopped they were crawl underneath the bus which made me heart jump when we started to move and they were still under there! Ha but we eventually got to the ferry and made it back to Sevilla around 1:30 in the morning as the streets were filled with people in beautiful flamenco dresses and suits from being at Feria which was going on all week long. :)
If you have actually read this entire blog KUDOS! I apologize it is so long but we packed so much into 6 days and it was all so fun that it is hard to cut things out. To finally wrap up this trip to Morocco, I had a great time and loved the food but the food definitely did not love me back. For the next few days after the trip, the drastic change in type of food from the healthy Moroccan to oily and fried Spanish food did not sit well. Bummer! I will save a blog about Feria for another day since this one is already too long.
Thanks for your interest in my travels and I hope you have enjoyed reading about it! :) I have not finished all my classes and am starting my last weekend in Sevilla soon.
Miss you all but will see you soon! Home on May 18th!
Love,
Betsy